Published: February 28, 2008 09:46 pm      

BICENTENNIAL: Historian's handmade costumes to grace gala

She’s particular about the facts and their presentation, just as you’d expect a historian to be.

The folks wearing Catherine Emerson’s period-dress originals to the Niagara County Bicentennial Gala couldn’t be more pleased by her pickiness.

Emerson, the Niagara County historian, moonlights as a seamstress replicating the fashion plates of American history. The advanced crafter says clothing is a subtle, yet powerful prop for the re-livers of history.

“If you’re interpreting at a railroad museum and you’re dressed from the era you’re talking about, you do a better job. (Spectators) relate better to it too,” she said. “Fashion is a way of teaching history.”

Emerson has cut and sewn dozens of ensembles for women and men, using the patterns and techniques common at any given time from the mid-18th century through late 19th century.

Her three newest ensembles will debut at the bicentennial gala tonight at Seneca Niagara Casino & Hotel. Gala goers were invited to dress black-tie or in any fashion of the past 200 years.

Deputy County Clerk Wendy Roberson asked Emerson to outfit her in a style common in 1808. Like the costumes in a PBS production of a Jane Austen novel, her bronze-and-blue gown has the Empire waist and wide, scooped neckline typical of the era, historically accurate embellishments like fringe and beadwork, and a matching shawl and drawstring purse.

“Oh, my God, it’s beautiful,” Roberson said of her outfit. “I am in awe.”

Emerson said she prefers to work with historically accurate fabrics, such as wool, cotton and linen, when possible. A silk gown would have cost too much, though, so Roberson’s is made from polyester that mimics the luxury fabric.

Also to keep the gown in line with the era, Emerson made an “abbreviated” corset to be worn underneath.

“You have to have the right shape for the time,” she said. “Why go to all the trouble of making the dress, then pairing it with a ‘50s-style pointy bra? It wouldn’t look right.”

The corset is tied like an original would have been. Roberson says it’s like a compression sports bra, without the giving quality of spandex.

The clothing of the bygone era does have an effect on posture, Emerson said.

“I do notice it makes me stand more upright,” Roberson said.

That’s the corset’s historical purpose, shaping stance, according to Emerson. The way clothing is made and worn reflects the values, attitudes and even the economics of the time, she said.

Men’s and women’s clothes used to be sewn in such a way they could be turned inside out and worn again. Accessories and undergarments were used not as fashion statements but to keep clothes cleaner, because regular washing was not practical. For a long time, men’s trousers were made with a sort of secret panel allowing about 20 pounds of give and take at the waist. It was the norm, because men might only own a couple pairs and they’d wear them daily for years.

Some of those facts work their way into the outfit Emerson is making for County Clerk Wayne Jagow.

When he dons his mid-19th century ensemble of trousers, shirt, vest and jacket, Jagow said he feels more connected with a past that he’s only read about.

“It’s looking at history from a different perspective,” he said. “Now I see why people get into re-enacting. When you put on the garb, you start going back in time. You start to feel like part of the era.”

With four pieces required, the suit might sound cumbersome or confining, but Jagow said he finds it’s actually quite comfortable.

“Kate’s workmanship is unbelievable. It’s so precise. I’m not the greatest model in the world but, doggone, that fits me to a T,” he said.

For her husband, Robert, director of Old Fort Niagara, Emerson made a new suit in 1830s style, with tail coat and high-collared shirt. It was an easier project than some others because the pattern she found for it was historically accurate. That’s not often the case, she said.

Emerson fell into period sewing gradually, after master-level studies in American history and decorative arts at Boston University. She spent a year working with historic costumery and textiles and occasionally found herself thinking, “hmm, I’d look good in that,” she said. “But everybody knows you don’t wear the originals, they’re for study; you make your own. I got a C-minus in sewing, so that thought wasn’t going anywhere.”

Later, when they lived in Pennsylvania, the Emersons were invited to take part in a heritage day. The costume directive for women re-enactors was to dress in long skirt and white blouse — any long skirt and blouse, which the detail-driven historian knew would not do. So she made friends with a seamstress and learned how to sew.

As of Thursday, Emerson still hadn’t decided what she was wearing to the gala. She has her pick from about 10 period dresses in her closet, all self-made for different occasions. Any of them would do, and they’re all fun to wear, she said.

In the outfits of yesteryear, “Women look like women. They’re soft. They have a shape. They don’t necessarily have their chest hanging out ... but the men are always like, ‘whoa!’ ”

Close to 700 tickets were sold to the gala, according to Jagow. Period dressers will receive gifts and prizes.

Jagow and Roberson plan on wearing their costumes March 11, when the county Legislature hosts a public re-enactment of the county’s formation 200 years to the day. Events at the county courthouse will begin at 6 p.m.